Flashing repair, sealed for good.
Most roof leaks start at a flashing joint, not in the middle of a shingle field. We repair chimney, wall, skylight, and vent flashing across the DFW Metro.
Absolute Professional Roofing Contractors LLC repairs failed flashing around chimneys, skylights, walls, and vents throughout the DFW Metro. Licensed under Texas contractor license 80001716, we've been working on roofs across the Dallas-Fort Worth area since 2009. Flashing is the metal and sealant work that seals every joint where the roof meets something else, and it's where most leaks actually start, not in the open shingle field. When flashing separates, cracks, or was installed short in the first place, we reset it, replace it, or reroute it so water goes where it's supposed to.
Is the leak in your home showing up right around a chimney, skylight, or vent pipe?
That's a strong sign the flashing at that joint has failed. Chimneys and skylights move independently from the roof structure around them, so the flashing sealing that gap works loose over years even when the shingles nearby are fine. A caulk-only fix might buy a season, but the real repair is resetting the step flashing and counter-flashing, or in the case of a pipe, replacing the rubber boot that's dried out and cracked. Getting up close to the joint is the only way to tell whether it's a quick reseal or a full flashing replacement.
Warning signs to watch for
Water staining in the attic near the chimney chase
This usually points to failed chimney flashing or counter-flashing that's pulled away from the mortar joints. Caulk repairs tend to hold for a season or two before the leak comes back.
A stain directly under a skylight
Older skylights often leak at both the flashing kit around the curb and the seal between the glass and frame. When both are failing, replacing the unit with a new flashing kit is usually the better fix than resealing again.
A leak that started small and tracks to a specific vent pipe
The rubber collar on a plumbing vent boot dries out and cracks well before the shingles around it wear out. It's one of the most common leak sources on any roof, storm damage or not.
Rot showing up in a wall where the roof meets siding
This points to a missing or failed kickout flashing at the base of a step-flashed wall. Without a kickout, water runs behind the siding instead of into the gutter, and the rot can sit hidden for years before it's noticed.
What is causing the problem
Chimney flashing that's worked loose from the masonry
Chimneys settle and move separately from the roof deck, so flashing tied into the mortar joints gradually pulls free. Wide chimneys without a cricket behind them also pool water against the brick, which accelerates the problem.
A skylight flashing kit or seal past its service life
Skylight seals and flashing kits age at a different rate than the roof shingles around them. When both the curb flashing and the glazing seal are compromised, patchwork repairs stop being cost-effective.
A cracked or dried-out pipe boot
The rubber on a plumbing vent boot has a shorter lifespan than the shingles it's set into, so it's a recurring maintenance item on any roof regardless of age.
Missing step flashing or a kickout at a wall transition
This is often an installation gap rather than wear and tear, and it can go unnoticed until the hidden wall sheathing has already rotted. If the rot has spread, that's a repair beyond flashing alone.
What to expect during the visit
We start by inspecting every flashing line and penetration on the roof, not just the one near the visible leak, since a failure in one spot often means age-related wear elsewhere too. We check the attic side for staining that points to the exact source, and where the cause isn't obvious from the roof alone, we'll water-test the suspect area. From there we reset, replace, or add flashing as needed, whether that's step flashing at a wall, a new flashing kit at a skylight, or a fresh pipe boot, and we seal and confirm the fix before we leave.
Related services you may need
If flashing failure has led to a broader leak issue, our Roof Repair team can handle any shingle or decking work that goes with it. Where the flashing damage traces back to a recent storm, Storm & Hail Restoration can document it for a claim. And if rotted fascia or gutters are part of the picture at a wall transition, our Gutters team can address that too.
The cost of waiting
Flashing failures are quiet until they aren't. Water finding its way behind a chimney or under a wall transition can rot sheathing and framing long before it shows up as a visible leak inside, and by the time it's noticed, the repair often involves more than just the flashing. Catching it at the flashing stage keeps the fix contained to metal and sealant instead of structural carpentry.
Why does my chimney or skylight keep leaking after it was resealed?
Caulk and sealant are a temporary fix, not a permanent one, because the flashing underneath is what actually sheds water. If the step flashing, counter-flashing, or flashing kit has failed, resealing the surface will only hold for a short time before the leak returns.
Can flashing be repaired without touching the shingles around it?
In most cases, yes. Flashing repair is typically isolated to the joint itself, whether that's a chimney, skylight, or vent, and doesn't require pulling shingles beyond what's needed to reset the flashing properly.
What affects the cost of a flashing repair?
The type of flashing, how many joints are affected, and whether hidden rot has developed behind it all play into the scope of the work. A single pipe boot swap is a much smaller job than resetting flashing on a chimney with a cricket or repairing rotted wall sheathing behind it.
If a leak keeps coming back around a chimney, skylight, or vent, give us a call and we'll find out what's actually failing. We handle flashing repair across the DFW Metro.
- Storm damage, leaks, flashing failures, or missing shingles. We restore your roof quickly and correctly.